The Big Snow

North Wales like most of the country has recently has a large dump of snow. I spent four days over the weekend snowed in at a very alpine looking PYB in Capel Curig. Probably one of the best places to be snowed in; plenty of food, a bar and a ski slope!

The winter scene outside PYB on Saturday morning

Lucky walkers about to head out into winter wonderland


Saturday was spent shovelling snow to clear the track down the car park and extract my van! Good training for Scotland. 
Van extraction success..check out my new pop-top roof!
When I finally decided the roads were good enough to drive home, this was what the road down to Nant Gwynant looked like:

The road home

After a sketchy journey home I decided to try and fit some snow chains we have had laying about. They just about fitted onto Amy's lovely little red car.

Snow chains in action
Having not driven with chains before I am very impressed. Good traction even on icy snow! I'm playing to safe, I haven't ventured over 20mph.



The big melt and drytooling

Warm temperatures over the weekend have melted most of the snow very quickly. I hadn't been in the mountains (or even out of the house) for a couple of days! Iv been working on the openenergymonitor  project with Trystan Lea. With my friend David coming over from Manchester and dying to get out we walked into the Ladders on Saturday after a leisurely start. With the warm temperate we were not too hopeful, I was shocked to see how bare the cliff looked. A few meting icy streaks remained. We retired to the indoor bouldering wall. Now the cold temperatures has returned it will be interesting to see what's climable. Gullys will probably be the best bet for a while.

Mmm.. where did all the snow go?

Soggy walk 

Today we went drytooling at White Goods, a better venue that Millstone! I had never been there before for done much dry tooling. Its great fun! ...and a proper pumpy workout! We did Adams M5 then moved onto Pears M7 before I dogged my way up Jazz M8. I'm psyched to get training and come back and a some of the harder routes. We all finished the day with our front teeth and face intact..bonus!

White Goods

Jade on Pears M7

Andy Turner, Nick Bullock and Rob Greenwood were there showing us how its done

Andy Turner firing up Tumble in the Jungle and amazing looking M9

The Screen

Iv been suffering from a winter cold for the last couple of days, possibly going to the pub might have been the cause! Yesterday I had to let my partner down and sleep for most of the day, rubbish! Today I was determined not to miss out on the good winter conditions. Even though was not feeling fighting fit I headed up to Idwal with Andy Barker for some ice fun with minimal walking.

Cwm Idwal is looking fantastic, most of the ice routes are in condition. The crouds were not so fantastic; I couldn't believe the number of people out ice climbing mid-week! 

After a relaxed start (I was still pretty ill!) we got in queue for The Screen IV 4. Two pretty cool but short pitches of solid but slightly brittle ice. The route was significantly easier since so many people had previously climbed it, hacking out ledges. 

Andy on the 2nd pitch of The Screen

After the route we climbed a few short icy steps up into the dark cleft of the Devils Kitchen. A very atmospheric place. The ice at the back of the kitchen looked like it was nearly in condition (for the bold).
In The Devils Kitchen

I have since seen on my facebook feed that is has been climbed a few days ago! Definitely a very inspiring route. 

Also today my dad went for a walk over the Glyders, here is a rather fine photo that he took: 

Decending the Glydrau 



Snowboarding Moelwyn Mawr

Yesterday Trystan, Haf, Gwil and myself went in the search of snow. It probably wasn't the best day to go snowboarding, there had been a bit of a melt on Friday. Nonetheless Trystan who is always an optimist when it comes to snowboarding persuaded me to carry a board up the Moelwyn.

Friendly snow dog!







In fact the snow on the summit ridge was fantastic! Quite short lived but great fun in late afternoon sunshine.

Pillar Chimney on Clogwyn Ddu

Wow the winter season is really kicking off! Iv just returned from climbing Pillar Chimney on Clogwyn Ddu in Cwn Cneifion with chimney fetish man Dave Morse and pyb top man Martin Doyle.

The route is given V 5/6, the crux of the route is a very awkward chimney behind a big pillar (hence the name!). The chimney didn't have any ice in it like the guidebook suggests, but it didn't stop Dave who flew up it on the lead.Word of advice: don't climb the chimney wearing a pack..it will be desperate and you will rip you jacket!

Contemplating the chimney 

Awkward chimney topout 

Martin starting the 3rd pitch 

Hard water ice and turf on the 3rd pitch..this route has everything! 


On the walk in we had time to inspect the ice routes forming in Idwal. Lots of ice is visible, very exciting for November! Routes like The Ramp, South Gully and Idwal Stream have all had several ascents already. The top pitch of the Appendix is looking good but the bottom pillar needs a bit more forming.

Winter Wonderland

And snow it begins!

Last week saw the proper beginning of winter in North Wales. I woke up to a good few cm of snow. Temperatures have not risen much above zero for the past few days.

I spent the weekend sleeping in the van, getting out in the mountains and working on the bar. 

After a seriously amazing tour round the dmm factory Saterday morning my dad and I walked up Lliwedd via the Cribau ridge. Great day out. Ice was starting to form but the turf was not quite frozen.





Saturday night was super cold the thermometer in the van read -7 degrees C (inside!) when I woke up. I was super warm due to a massive down sleeping bag, a duvet and a blanket! Unfortunately by the morning all my water had frozen and my gas wouldn't work which meant I had to go without the morning coffee. Interestingly my milk had not frozen so cornflakes were still on the menu. Even though it was cold I still really enjoy sleeping in the van, its awesome to be able to slide the door open in the morning and watch the first rays of sun hitting the Snowdon horseshoe.

View from my sleeping bag on Sat morning!

On Saturday Lawrence (Mountain Leader) Ramsay and I climbed the Parsons Nose on Clogwyn Y Ddysgl. Again the snow was very powdery but the turf was solid. We topped out into  alpine esq sunshine. Another great day. 
Starting to form...







Jerry's Roof! and Ice Axe Modification

Last week I managed to do Jerry's Roof, a classic boulder problem in the Llanberis pass. Well kind of any way, I did it from the flake start instead of the arête. This makes it easier, possibly V8 instead of V9. But anyway it was still an occasion for celebration for me since it took about 5 session with lots of training in between.

Resting before the send!     
Cheers for the photo Dave http://davidmorse1984.blogspot.com/


I dont often siege boulder problems or routes in this way, in fact I think its the first time Iv ever done a boulder problem which took more than two sessions! Boulder problems or routes which I cant do in two sessions often feel impossibly hard and I get frustrated and give up. Jerry's roof was different, I actually enjoyed going down to 'work' it. A first for me!

The last few days have seen the real start to winter in North Wales. After having to clear snow of the van after I finished work last night I decided it was time to dig out the axes. I have a pair of Petzl Atzars, last year I used them leashless with just a single Grivel slider griprest crudely fitted onto one of them. This year with rising winter aspirations and a taste for dry tooling I decided to try and fit a griprest. I managed to get the Petzl Quark griprest to fit. Here are some photos:

Stock Vs. modified Petzl Atzar
Some steady drilling was required to drill the 5mm hole on the right! Not much metal to spare
Close up

I'm pleased with how the mod turned out. I'v just been stress testing the grip-rests by subjecting them to repeated ice axe pull-up sessions! I plan to fit a Grivel Slider just above the orange grip to act as a trigger. 

I'm planning to get out in the hills over the weekend to see what's going on. I don't think there will be much in nick yet but its always fun to get out in the snow. Will report back. Check out Baggy's blog for N.Wales winter updates http://wwwbaggy.blogspot.com/

Also the PYB indoor wall has been reset, well psyched! This is the most exciting thing to happen in Capel Curig for a while! 

First bit of snow of the winter

Hello, its Trystan here, Glyn asked me if I would like to write a blog about our day today as he is working hard on the plas y brenin bar and I'm just sitting here with a pint.. so here goes:

We were on our way to shovel some sand this morning in Nantmor when the view below appeared:


The first snow of winter! and a fantastic sunny day.

After last winter both of us have been waiting in anticipation for this winter, exited to get out and do some new winter ice climbing routes and for me especially to get out on my snowboard and do some new descents. The snow this morning was clearly not buckets but maybe a promising sign of things to come? It was enough to get us inspired. It was decided that a run was in store!

Glyn's dad was also interested to see the snow and so offered to drop us off at pen y pass, Glyn dropped his van off at nant gwynant. We decided to run from pen y pass via the pyg track, a grade 1 scramble up the cribau to the lliwedd ridge and then on up to the top of snowdon, down the south ridge and finally, left back to nant gwynant. I will stop talking now and show some pictures:

The first leg, along the pyg track


The top lake from the start of the scramble


Looking down over lliwedd


Running along the south ridge

Some dramatic snow imagery:


and a little bit lower.. no snow to be seen but still a very nice view


It was a great run, thoroughly enjoyed it and am now quite exhausted!

Autumn Work and Play...

Iv been neglecting my blogging duties lately, mainly because Iv been pretty busy! This is a bit of a disjointed post, iv tried to sum up a hectic months worth of stuff in a few lines! Right, here goes:

I'm still managing to get out climbing now and again. A couple of weeks ago a had a great couple of days, I managed to onsight Resurrection on the Cromlech and Cream at Tremadog on two consecutive days in warm October sunshine. Those two routes pretty much constituted my summer trad climbing ambitions..I can now happily go into hibernation for the winter!
Enjoying Cream..tasty!

Tremadog Top-Out Vista
I have been working on some electronic projects with my friend Trystan Lea. For the past year or so Trystan has been developing an open source energy monitor. The monitor is based around an open source programmable microcontroller called an Arduino . A few months ago I built an energy monitor for my house. I can now view the real-time power consumption of my house on-line! 

My home energy monitor dashboard


 Trystan and I have recently been working on installing the energy monitor in various locations in North Wales. I have also been working on developing a temperature and humidity logging device for my dad to use to monitor the conditions inside one of his bee hives!

A few months ago I joined Trystan volunteering part time at CAT (centre for alternative technology). Its a great place to work, plenty of friendly people, exciting projects and in a beautiful location. We are currently working on a monitoring system for their PV solar roof. Trystan has written a hard hitting four part'er blog post summarising what we are currently working on: http://openenergymonitor.blogspot.com/

Trystan watching the 35KW PV roof do its stuff

This weekend I met up with some friends from Warwick. We had a great couple of days walking Nantle ridge and bouldering. One of my fiends brought her poodle with her. The dog managed to walk pretty much the whole length of the ridge, with the addition of a technical fleece body warmer! 
Matching Outfits

Finally I'm still working a few days a week on the bar at PYB. And I'm still loving it! Its a great contrast to the technical work iv been doing at CAT. The work is really just a good excuse to hang out with some good people in a beautiful place.

The view before my shift began on Sunday night

Probably the best view from any bar in the UK!
Llyn Padarn



I will leave you with video featuring my sheep chasing apples!: