Pillar Chimney on Clogwyn Ddu

Wow the winter season is really kicking off! Iv just returned from climbing Pillar Chimney on Clogwyn Ddu in Cwn Cneifion with chimney fetish man Dave Morse and pyb top man Martin Doyle.

The route is given V 5/6, the crux of the route is a very awkward chimney behind a big pillar (hence the name!). The chimney didn't have any ice in it like the guidebook suggests, but it didn't stop Dave who flew up it on the lead.Word of advice: don't climb the chimney wearing a pack..it will be desperate and you will rip you jacket!

Contemplating the chimney 

Awkward chimney topout 

Martin starting the 3rd pitch 

Hard water ice and turf on the 3rd pitch..this route has everything! 

On the walk in we had time to inspect the ice routes forming in Idwal. Lots of ice is visible, very exciting for November! Routes like The Ramp, South Gully and Idwal Stream have all had several ascents already. The top pitch of the Appendix is looking good but the bottom pillar needs a bit more forming.

Winter Wonderland