Both crags are micro-granite rock type which makes them unique and a nice change from limestone. both crags are well covered in the excellent A55 climbing guide book
Notice Board Crag - easily accessible crag with a mountain feel to it. Two fantastic sport routes a 6b+ and a 7a+ both are quality routes on lovely rock about 17m long. The crag is best approached from above down a in-situ handrail
|Notice Board Crag, small but well formed|
|Slightly urban but still interesting view from the top|
The Gallery (upper tier) - the approach to this crag is rather adventurous for different reasons than normal, it involves two running the gauntlet style crossings of the A55 expressway! Even though it's not a sea cliff the proximity to the sea makes it feel like a rather adventurous trad climbing sea cliff. The crag is outrageously steep for the grade of the routes and unfortunately the holds are never as positive as you would hope! However the well featured square cut holds actually make the routes climb in a rather blancy style. Again there are two routes a 6b+ and a 7a, both are long (30m!), the 6b+ is the best route and no gift at the grade. The 7a is only slightly harder with worse rock quality.
|Wild seconding in high winds!|
|The Diamond Season has Started!|