Enjoying the technical moves on the lower part of Dwarf Shortage
The crux is a fantastic rock over to a small crimp which broke off during my ascent resulting in a whipper, a cut to the hand and the move being make even harder.
The top crux rockover
Barni gave the route E3/E4. I (in my limited hard slate experience) felt the route merited E4, possibly now 6b with the broken hold on the crux. The crux is well protected with the bolt below being just below foot level.
Taking flight! The offending hold can be seen breaking off
The top E3 6a finger crack of Central Sadness was fantastic.
Top finger crack of Central Sadness
My ascent was definitely not an onsight, Barni was on photo taking and beta providing duty when I got scared! I found the second bolt pretty scary to clip, I had a QD pre placed. I also aided past the (now harder) crux using an abb rope. Liam who seconded the route managed to do the crux move on toprope.
Liam about to do the crux with the modified hold