It's been a fantastically sunny weekend here in North Wales. Two days were spent in Gogarth and the other in Tremadog.
Although I feel pretty strong and fit, having just returned from a sport climbing trip, trad climbing fitness is very different. My calf muscles have been taking a battering!
The highlights at Gogarth were Emulator E1 5b on Main Cliff and Gauntlet HVS 5a on Upper Tier. We also climbed Bezal VS 5a on Upper Tier but the last pitch was so loose (even for Gogarth) I don't recommend it. I didn't take that many photos as I was too busy climbing (and faffing!), I did manage a few in the evening light.
David seconding The Gauntlet HVS on Upper Tier
Mmm what to choose - David leading the 2nd Pitch of The Gauntlet
If you are considering climbing the Gauntlet its best to abb of after the 2nd pitch (in situ tat). If not a whole world for steep vegetation and loose rock awaits..error.
Gogarth Upper Tier and South Stack Lighthouse
Gogarth South Stack in Evening Light
Today was spent on Craig Y Castell in Tremadog. David climbed Tantalus E1 5b and I climbed Tensor E2 6a. I have always wanted to climb Tensor after seeing the classic photo (in PYB reception) of Joe Brown on it. I always get inspired by the photos on the walls in PYB, usually when I am delivering the all important tea and cake trolley to the staff. I had heard stories of horrendous polish and a desperate and reachy crux. In reality the climbing was steady and interesting up to the top roof then a couple of hard moves to get over the roof. The abseil down from Tantalus took us down the line of Tensor, therefore I had a good idea where the good holds were! Definitely not an onsight. After the roof the route degrades to slightly scary scrambling but the quality of the climbing below makes up for it.
