North Wales Coast Slightly Esoteric Sport Climbing

Last weekend Amy and I explored a couple of new sport crags along the north coast of North Wales. We were pleasantly surprised by the quality of the climbing, the crags were small but what the lacked in size and number of routes was made up by the quality of the rock and length of the routes. 

Both crags are micro-granite rock type which makes them unique and a nice change from limestone. both crags are well covered in the excellent A55 climbing guide book

Notice Board Crag - easily accessible crag with a mountain feel to it. Two fantastic sport routes a 6b+ and a 7a+ both are quality routes on lovely rock about 17m long. The crag is best approached from above down a in-situ handrail

Notice Board Crag, small but well formed

Steep 6b+!

Slightly urban but still interesting view from the top


The Gallery (upper tier) - the approach to this crag is rather adventurous for different reasons than normal, it involves two running the gauntlet style crossings of the A55 expressway! Even though it's not a sea cliff the proximity to the sea makes it feel like a rather adventurous trad climbing sea cliff. The crag is outrageously steep for the grade of the routes and unfortunately the holds are never as positive as you would hope! However the well featured square cut holds actually make the routes climb in a rather blancy style. Again there are two routes a 6b+ and a 7a, both are long (30m!), the 6b+ is the best route and no gift at the grade. The 7a is only slightly harder with worse rock quality. 

Wild seconding in high winds! 
The other big event is that the Diamond in now open for business now the bird ban has been lifted. I had my first session of the year last Thursday evening, it's just as good as I remember. Questing up The Wall of Evening light (35m 7b+) onight in the evening light was an amazing experience. I think this route ranks as one of the best sport pitches I've done in the UK. Stay tuned for more Diamond action, I'm keen to get in many more days like this before the end of the year.

The Diamond Season has Started! 

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