Showing posts from April, 2016

Chwarel Moel Ystradau

Nestled in the mountains of Tanygrisiau is an unlikely find; a microgranite quarry with some bolted aretes! 
The quarry is located in a unlikely beautiful location on the SE bank of Tanygrisiau Reservoir See UKC Chwarel Moel Ystradau Crag page for approach description.

To warm up I did a couple of 6a+/b and a 7a+ lines. The 6's gave nice climbing on excellent rock.  The 7a+ would have been good if it was not for a missive scary loose flake! For this reason I recomend avoiding it...this is a quarry after all, there is a lot of loose rock in places. There is also a 7b+ I did not do, but looks pretty good. 
The main event is The Dawn Arete 8a. This is quite a find. It's short but packs a punch with some powerful moves and funky climbing up an arete. A clip stick is recommended to clip the 2nd bolt, there is an as the in-site draw but the gate has succumbed to the weather and no longer closes. 
I climbed the route first red-point. It's probably more like 7c, but still very go…

Talfarach Take Three!

With the sun still shining on the coast and not in the mountains once again we headed out onto the Lleyn to Talfrach for some sun, sea and abrasive bouldering!

Sunny South Cider Soak

As winter was still lingering on in North Wales we took a mini van trip down south in search of sunshine and dry rock. We were not disappointed.

First on the list was Anstey's Cove, I had been here once before about 5 years ago and was very impressed by the quality of the rock. This time I made it down to explore the even steeper Ferocity Wall. Wow, this is a seriously impressive bit of wall a mini-Ceuse! If only Anstey's Cove was 10x the size, it would be one of the best sport crags in the country. I got on The Cider Soak a classic UK 8a. Armed with some beta from Jonny and some vague memories of Jon mentioning a finger lock at the top I managed to redpoint the route on my 4th attempt. I was pretty pleased with this considering I had mainly been bouldering for the last couple of months. However the lack of route fitness did mean I dropped the route holding the massive jugs at the top on my second try! It actually added to the excitement being forced to climb the route another…