Chwarel Moel Ystradau

Nestled in the mountains of Tanygrisiau is an unlikely find; a microgranite quarry with some bolted aretes! 

The quarry is located in a unlikely beautiful location on the SE bank of Tanygrisiau Reservoir See UKC Chwarel Moel Ystradau Crag page for approach description.

Chwarel Moel Ystradau - Upper. (The Dawn ArĂȘte is the line with the rope down it)

Chwarel Moel Ystradau - Lower

Chwarel Moel Ystradau

To warm up I did a couple of 6a+/b and a 7a+ lines. The 6's gave nice climbing on excellent rock.  The 7a+ would have been good if it was not for a missive scary loose flake! For this reason I recomend avoiding it...this is a quarry after all, there is a lot of loose rock in places. There is also a 7b+ I did not do, but looks pretty good. 

The main event is The Dawn Arete 8a. This is quite a find. It's short but packs a punch with some powerful moves and funky climbing up an arete. A clip stick is recommended to clip the 2nd bolt, there is an as the in-site draw but the gate has succumbed to the weather and no longer closes. 

I climbed the route first red-point. It's probably more like 7c, but still very good. 

While I don't want to condone bolted routes in the Snowdonia mountains, in this location being a old quarry with unprotectable arĂȘte lines over 10m high I see no problem with bolts being placed. 

The Dawn Arete

Here is a video of Michael Allday making the first ascent in 2016: 

There would be potential for some new lines in the quarry but great care would need to be taken with the loose blocks at the top. 

Springwatch! Walking back round the reservoir  :-)

Walking back round the reservoir  

Talfarach Take Three!

With the sun still shining on the coast and not in the mountains once again we headed out onto the Lleyn to Talfrach for some sun, sea and abrasive bouldering!

Superman Move!

Getting Waved!

Encountering the locals

Sunny South Cider Soak

As winter was still lingering on in North Wales we took a mini van trip down south in search of sunshine and dry rock. We were not disappointed.

First on the list was Anstey's Cove, I had been here once before about 5 years ago and was very impressed by the quality of the rock. This time I made it down to explore the even steeper Ferocity Wall. Wow, this is a seriously impressive bit of wall a mini-Ceuse! If only Anstey's Cove was 10x the size, it would be one of the best sport crags in the country. I got on The Cider Soak a classic UK 8a. Armed with some beta from Jonny and some vague memories of Jon mentioning a finger lock at the top I managed to redpoint the route on my 4th attempt. I was pretty pleased with this considering I had mainly been bouldering for the last couple of months. However the lack of route fitness did mean I dropped the route holding the massive jugs at the top on my second try! It actually added to the excitement being forced to climb the route another couple of times to try and work a better sequence for the top. Finally on my 4th go with fading strength and daylight I clipped the chains after deploying my new sequence on the top without an ounce of energy to spare. Happy days.

Starting the upper (redpoint crux) of The Cider Soak

Trying to clip the lower off, sun getting in the way! 
Ferocity Wall

Thanks Sally for the awesome photos.

Next I travelled down to Portland with Amy for with the aim of building some route fitness. Portland was great for this, lots of routes in the mid 7's to throw myself at. The crags at Portland are blessed with a good range of grades, there are not many sport crags in the UK with a 3* 6a a couple of lines to the right of a 3* 7b+! There are quite a few routes that I thought were slightly over starred given the quality of the rock in places, however the good parts of some of the routes I did were totally amazing. My favorite routes were:

Reverence 7a+ - amazing corner with wild bridging
Saskatchewan Uranium Miner 7c - incredible knee bar sequence
Zinc Oxide Mountain 7b+ lovely sustained and technical upper section on pristine rock

The only other 'users of the carg' we saw all week! 

Top van bivi spot

Amy gearing up

Dropping in to Wallsend South

Wallsend South, Portland

Wallsend South, Portland

Amazing fossils in Wallsend South