Showing posts from April, 2013

Central Ice Fall Direct

..the Easter North Wales winter treats continue!

Mid week came the big tick of the winter. Teaming up with John Orr and Luke Brooks we made an (possibly the third of the year? ) ascent of Central Ice Fall direct VI 6 on Craig y Rhaeadr,  this was a route I won't forget in a while.

Luke took the first pitch which is usually quite thin but this year it surprisingly took descent screws almost all the way up

I took the middle pitch which was long (45m!) and sustained. Luckily all the ice climbing I did in Cogne paid off and I didn't get (too!) pumped. Even so I felt pretty worked at the top. The hanging belay below the final icicle was not a particularly good place to try and recover. Hanging off a couple of screws and a detached pillar getting sprayed by ice water was not particularly comfy! However I can confirm that under such conditions cream eggs taste amazing!

With a bit of trepidation John Orr swung out onto the hanging ice pillar, climbing delicately and not placing any sc…

Easter 2013...Alps?, North Wales!

North Wales has been amazing for the past couple weeks, I've been having to remind myself that I'm not living in the Alps!

Since coming back from Italy I've been busy moving house. Things are starting to settle down now. I'm very much enjoying living closer to the mountains.

All the craziness of late started a couple of weeks ago with some wild weather and heavy snowfall. This resulted in Llanberis Pass being closed for almost a week, amazing considering the time of year. I almost got caught out driving back home after a late bar shift at Plas Y Brenin. Amazingly we managed to slide though some seriously large wind blown drifts, some of which were up over the bonnet of the car!

A few 100m lower altitude in Beris there was no snow at all.

The pass opened and the sun came out just in time for the Easter Bank holiday weekend. My new spare room and converted attic office were filled with psyched friends super keen to get out in the mountains!

With Team Savage reunited (pl…

Finnish Fame

Two years ago in May 2011 (doesn't time fly!) I was one of the UK hosts on the BMC International Meet in Llanberis. See the blog post I wrote at the time.
One of the international guests who I had the enjoyment of showing around North Wales inbetween the rain showers was Perttu Ollila from Finland. After the meet Perttu wrote a nice article on his trip to North Wales for a Finnish climbing magazine using the photos I took. He sent me a copy of the magazine, I re-discovered it while shifting through paper work while moving here. I thought the article was worth scanning in, even if you can't understand Finnish it's got some nice photos...even though I say so myself!