Yesterday I managed to successfully climb The Dark Half, my first 8a!
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| Luke styling out 'the big rock over' |
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| About to attempt the crux |
I managed a successful red point of the route on my second lead attempt after four days spread over two years trying the moves on a top-rope.
The Dark Half, like all hard slate routes feels utterly desperate until you work out the sequence. Once worked out, the sequence of moves on the route are totally amazing; powerfully dynamic yet precise and balancy with a degree of slate weirdness.
My first encounter with the route was in April last year. I was in the slate quarries sans guidebook, I spotted the square cut flake which The Dark Half starts up and the vertical smooth wall above and thought wow, what a line! Thinking it looked about 7a+ I jumped on it, it's fair to say I got spanked. Nonetheless the seed was sown and the account had been opened!
In February this year I spent a couple of cold days on the route trying to work out the moves generally getting shutdown by almost every move.
Last week I surprised myself by almost managing every move. The crux is particularly dependent on being able to make a very big dynamic move off an extremely small foot hold. New climbing shoes with a sharp edge are key to getting the most out of this tiny foothold.
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| Powerfully dynamic crux move from the microscopic foothold |
Yesterday armed with new shoes, good people and some steak and dauphinoise potato left overs, I went for the lead for the first time. I surprised myself be sticking the dynamic crux move. After a rest and a mouthful of steak I went for another attempt, I couldn't quite believe it when I found myself reaching for the first respectable hold of the route at the end of the crux sections. I suddenly become very nervous, I was about to climb my first 8a! I just about manged to hold it together and climb the easier but still fall offable runout top section. I don't think I've ever concentrated so hard.
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| Fueling up with steak dinner pre-send! * |
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| Big photogenic (but not from this angle!) rock over, see photo of Luke above |
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| Dynamic crux move again, this is the actual successful send! |
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| Contorted awkwardness crossover |
Big thanks to Iona for jugging up a rope and hanging about to take these super awesome photos. I definitely owe you a belay!
Also thanks big thanks to Andy Psyche for a constant source of inspiration, encouragement and a loan of a clip-stick!
For years I've aspired to climb an 8a, it might sound silly since its just a number but I think it's healthy to have something to aim at. I've always jokingly said that when I do climb an 8a I'll quit sport climbing and just go trad climbing! I hope I wasn't serious since I've got a trip booked to Spain in a few weeks....
*Caution: ribeye steak and dauphinoise potatoes may not always be the best choice of pre-performance nutritional intake, I have heard reports of others experiencing quite the opposite effect from consumption!
Also thanks big thanks to Andy Psyche for a constant source of inspiration, encouragement and a loan of a clip-stick!
For years I've aspired to climb an 8a, it might sound silly since its just a number but I think it's healthy to have something to aim at. I've always jokingly said that when I do climb an 8a I'll quit sport climbing and just go trad climbing! I hope I wasn't serious since I've got a trip booked to Spain in a few weeks....
*Caution: ribeye steak and dauphinoise potatoes may not always be the best choice of pre-performance nutritional intake, I have heard reports of others experiencing quite the opposite effect from consumption!