Showing posts from November, 2011

The Dark Half - 8a

Yesterday I managed to successfully climb The Dark Half, my first 8a! 

I managed a successful red point of the route on my second lead attempt after four days spread over two years trying the moves on a top-rope.

The Dark Half, like all hard slate routes feels utterly desperate until you work out the sequence. Once worked out, the sequence of moves on the route are totally amazing; powerfully dynamic yet precise and balancy with a degree of slate weirdness.

My first encounter with the route was in April last year. I was in the slate quarries sans guidebook, I spotted the square cut flake which The Dark Half  starts up and the vertical smooth wall above and thought wow, what a line! Thinking it looked about 7a+ I jumped on it, it's fair to say I got spanked. Nonetheless the seed was sown and the account had been opened!

In February this year I spent a couple of cold days on the route trying to work out the moves generally getting shutdown by almost every move.

Last week I surprise…