Armed with a big rack of nuts, cams and plenty of large ovaries we were ready to do battle.
First I set off up the 30 degree roof crack of King Kong E3 5c. The crack was more intimidating than hard, with positive holds and large pockets at the top. Fantastic.
|Me thugging up the first pitch of King Kong|
After a few meters of super bunched up horizontal climbing with our knees by our faces Luke set off up the final steep flake of Troubador while Barni told me what cheese to use if you need to hide a horse. Supposedly easier than the first pitch but the lack of positive holds made it pretty tricky. Both pitches are totally wild.
|Luke working his way up the 'detached' flake on the final pitch of King Kong Troubadour connection|
Next Barni wanted to have a look at Wildebeest E4 6a. It takes the arête which leads directly into Hardd. Not being put off by the slightly hollow flake or Luke dropping his pear Barni tucked in his skirt and pulled off an awesome lead.
|Barni setting off on the 1st pitch of Wildebeest|
|Barni working hard on Wildebeest|
|Luke seconding Wildebeest|
|Luke found a great knee bar rest|
The pitch leads into the traverse of Hardd, which was just as scary to second as it was when I lead it a couple of years ago.
I then lead the top pitch of Wildebeest while Barni and Luke took turns to share my fleece and shiver on the belay. I found it pretty awkward and pumpy. Maybe something to do with the fact my trad climbing is a little rusty after a winter of climbing ice and indoor plastic.
I then had to leave to go to work. I heard that Barni and Luke did Samurai Groove moving fast with plenty of jumpers as the crag had now lost the sun. Reportedly its awesome and wild.
Another great day of winter sun, banter and good climbing.
If you do ever need to hide a horse, the cheese of choice is apparently mascarpone.