Showing posts from March, 2011

Carreg Hylldrem

Yesterday Luke, Barni and I explored Garreg Hylldrem. Previously I had only done a couple of routes on the crag, which is pretty shocking considering it's two min down the road from my house. I think my lack of activity on the crag has something to do with the fact that is's super intimidatingly steep.

Armed with a big rack of nuts, cams and plenty of large ovaries we were ready to do battle.

First I set off up the 30 degree roof crack of King Kong E3 5c. The crack was more intimidating than hard, with positive holds and large pockets at the top. Fantastic.

After a few meters of super bunched up horizontal climbing with our knees by our faces Luke set off up the final steep flake of  Troubador while Barni told me what cheese to use if you need to hide a horse. Supposedly easier than the first pitch but the lack of positive holds made it pretty tricky. Both pitches are totally wild.

Next Barni wanted to have a look at Wildebeest E4 6a. It takes the arête which leads directly in…

Late Winter Sunshine at Tremadog

There is defiantly a buzz in North Wales this time of year. Climbers are 'de-winterising' their racks and trying to get fit ready for sunny rock climbing. Even though there has been no snow for a while (apart from the odd sprinkle on the tops) its been pretty chilly and often wet. Today was the first proper t-shirt climbing day for me, and what a day it was!

I went to Tremadog with Barni, Luke and Ewan. Luke and I climbed a good right-to-left traverse of Grim Wall called Sometime E3 6a. It lacked any stars in the guidebook but the route certainly had cool positions and nice non-polished rock.

We then had a look at the meaty jamming top pitch of The Neb Direct E3/4. After a team effort Barni and Luke manage a clean ascent with gear pre-placed.