Dinorwig Unconquerable



I had heard much about this immaculate Yosemite style slate crack line, it was featured in a climbing magazine in June or July I think. It sounded like a fun route, pure crack lines are rare in Wales. I am strangely drawn to desperate looking cracklines (probably due to the abundance of protection!).

Dinorwig Unconquerable (E3 5c) is located on Heaven Walls the top of The Lost World. The approach is almost a route in itself! It can be approached by walking up behind Serengeti then abseiling in. But Barni and I decided to approach from the bottom of The Lost World since we both hadn't explored that area. We walking up the incline beyond Twll Mawr then descended old ladders of varying quality down into Modor and The Khyber Pass. A Tunnel then leads through the Khyber Pass into the bottom of The Lost World. More ladders and a dodgy scramble lead up to the bottom of the route. This approach is not recommended. The Lost World is an amazing place, complete with its own pond.

Run away train stye track....no we didn't walk along it!

Descending down into Modor

Entering The Lost World

I opted to be the first to 'get physical' with the crack. I went for the 'layback to glory' approach, it didnt work...I ran out of steam just below the roof (crux). I dogged to the top shuffling cams as I went...I'll be back! The route really needs 4 x size 2 cams and 4 x size 2.5. Size 2 BD Camalots are also good for the roof and top section.

I stripped the route and handed over to Barni. He went for the jamming approach which proved to be more successfully. Awesome route.
Me about the peel off

Barni cursing the roof section

View back towards Khyber Pass

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