There has been a bit of a gap since my last blog posting, the reason for that has been good weather! For almost a month the weather has been amazing. This has meant I'v been keeping busy climbing and also working. I'v recently got a three month placement as a technical project development officer for a local sustainability group called EcoBro.
Unfortunately the good weather came to an end just before the BMC international meet. I was one of the UK hosts for the week. My job as a host was to show off what north wales has to offer, I felt very lucky to be chosen for the job. Most of the overseas guests had heard of the traditional climbing ethic and variety of climbing in the UK and wanted to experience it for themselves. I would like to thank the BMC and in particular Becky McGovern for her great organisation and endless enthusiasm. It was a fantastic experience for both guests and hosts.
For the first couple of days I climbed with a nice guy called Alex from Romania. Even though the weather was bad on the Monday we sill managed four routes at Tremadog, probably more than I average in a day there! The highlight was climbing The Wasp E2 5c on Craig y Castell, fantastic route, then being hit by a savage rain storm on the top:
After that we had a brew in the cafe, then the rock was dry again. Amazing. We then climbed First Slip and Leg Slip, both good and both E1.
Alex from Romania on First Slip
Again, after topping out on First Slip, we got hit by another savage rain storm!
Sub-optimum conditions at Tremadog
I'm usually a fair weather climbing but today made me realise that there is excitement to be had by trying to climb in sub-optimum conditions!
On Tuesday Alex and I teamed up with Luke Brooks and headed to the Orme for rain avoidance tactics. We climbed six of the classic trad routes on the Orme racking up about 20 E-grade points between us. I led Plumbline E3 5c, Vagal Inhibition E2 5c and Excursion E2 5b. Luke climbed The Visionary E4 and Scary Canary E5 6a/b. He said it was super hard but not that scary if you have faith in 'bomber' small wires.
On Wednesday I climbed with a great guy called Perttu Ollila from Finland, unlike many of the international guests Perttu was actually a very experienced trad climber. Again teaming up with Luke we went to Gogarth to give Perttu the big G experience! He loved it, we climbed Aardvark E2 6a, Achilles E3 5c and Strike E3/E4 6a.
Luke enjoying seconding Aardvark
Perttu showing off and staying warm in style on a chilly Gogarth belay, note woolly over socks. What a great idea!
North Wales is famous for its geological diversity, we counted 7 or 8 different rock types within a half an hour drive from Llanberis. On Thursday the three of us continued our rock-type-tour of North Wales by hitting the slate. I spent the day pointing Perttu at the classic routes on slate then getting on a rope to take photos of him. Pertu is keen to write an article on UK trad climbing for a Finnish climbing magazine.
Perttu setting off up the classic Comes the Dervish E3 5c in Vivan Quarry
Two locals enjoying the weather
Perttu pulling round over the overlap on Comes the Dervish
Perttu enjoying Pull My Daisy E2 5c
The Team! Perttu, Luke and myself enjoying the first bit of sun all week after climbing Gerbil Abuse 7a+
Unfortunately I couldn't host on Fri and Sat and due to a snapped coil spring and worn break pads on my van, so also I couldn't make the party on Sat night. Iv heard it was loud! What a place for a DJ party, right in the middle of the Llanberis pass. Stunning.
