Showing posts from July, 2014

Céüse 2014

Last week I got home from a couple of weeks climbing at the best crag in the world, Céüse! It was almost exactly two years ago I was last at Céüse, it was just as good as I remember.

When I was climbing in Morocco a few months a ago I had the pleasure of meeting Arnaud Petit. As well as new routing all over the world Arnaud lives at the base of Céüse and obviously knows the crag like the back of his hand, if you haven't already seen it the video of Arnaud climbing Black Bean on gear is well work a watch. As I headed out to Céüse I dropped Arnaud a message asking if he had any route recommendations for me, very kindly he responded with a list of his favourite routes at 7c-8a+. This list became a kind of tick list for me during the trip! Arnaud's recommended routes did not disappoint, every one I got on was amazing. Here's Arnaud's list:

Face de rat, Femme blanche Encore, Poinçonneur des lilas, Berlin, Makash walou, Femme noire, Tout n'est pas si facile

The highlig…

North Wales Summer! Featuring Central Pillar, Castell Y Gwynt

In the past year or so I've found myself making often making the pilgrimage along the A55 to the Limestone mecca of the Great Orme. More often than not the destination is LPT (Lower Pen Trwyn) or occasionally The Diamond. However the Orme does have many more sectors which I've yet to explore. This summer I'm keen to explore some lesser trodden parts of the Orme.

The crag Castell y Gwynt probably falls into this category, while not particularly hard to get to it certainly feels more adventurous then it's neighbours. A steep grassy descent followed by a little scrambles and rope assisted down-climb sees you at the base of the crag.

In my second session last week I managed to redpoint the awesome Central Pillar, a 25m/30 8a/ (+?). It's one of the best routes of it's grade in the area and climbs very different to the neighbouring routes at LPT. The route was originally given E6 6c and relaid on several rotting threads, last year a couple of extra bolts were added a…