Showing posts from August, 2013

Wildly Understated Beer!

Two things happened last week which were equally exciting (to me!) 
Wild Understatement 8a+ First,  on Friday night I climbed Wild Understatement at LPT which is kind of a direct version of Statement of Youth with an independent start and finish. Wild Understatement is certainly wild! The start takes a very improbable line over a massive roof which goes with surprising ease once the right holds are found..while blindly groping about! The route then joins Statement after its traverse for three bolts before moving left (crux move) into a stunning finger crack to finish. Late tides meant we climbed almost till dark, being Friday night I went straight to the Heights in Llanberis which was well attended. It was great to be able to see so many good friends in one go, times like these remind me how good living in North Wales is! 
The route gets the grade of 8a+, making it the first route of this grade for me to climb. This is exciting for me since it's the first time in a year and a hal…

Release The Hounds and catch the birds!

One of the things I love about climbing is how it gets me out to explore new places and is a good excuse to spend time outdoors. Last week I had a rather eventful afternoon out climbing with Luke.

We went up to explore Craigiau Cigfran above Penmaenmawr and try the highly acclaimed route Release The Hounds 7c which takes a stunningly steep arête line on perfect dolerite/micro granite.

In between red point attempts I wandered along the incline below the the crag to discover an impressive looking bird of pray (a young buzzard I found out later) sitting on the wall next to me. Quickly I snapped a shot feeling lucky to have such an amazing photo opportunity. It turned out that the good photo opportunity was too good to be true, the bird was obviously not in good shape, it had a broken let and was very weak. While Luke busted out his bird distraction techniques I manage to grab it from behind, surprisingly it did not give up much of a fight it was obviously very week. Up close the bird loo…