Showing posts from December, 2012


The weather has been fantastic this last week. Cold frosty nights and crisp sunny days.
North Wales can be amazing this time of year; at the beginning of the week I managed to get out rock climbing on slate one day then running up hero neve Ueli Steck style the next with the Plas Y Brenin staff Christmas party in between...perfect!
On the slate I managed to do a route called Chitra 7c in a few red-points. Chitra is a real three star hidden gem. The route is located on the bottom left hand side of lower rainbow walls. We approached from Nant Paris. I have wanted to do Chitra ever since I did the Dark Half back at the end of last year. Both are Nick Harm routes, of similar style; vertical slate walls with big thrusting moves between holds. Chitra was given 7c+ but it's more like 7c now in its current state after a rock fall which deposited two railway tracks at the bottom of the route. We started the route by climbing up the metal tracks and with the second bolt pre clipped since…

Kicking off the Winter Season!

Yesterday John Orr and I managed our first winter route of the season! feels like a real treat to get some quality early season winter routes done on our doorstep.  Only a week or two ago we were clipping bolts in sunny Catalunya! The start the winter season is looking promising, yesterday we got two routes done..already a 50% increase in the number of Welsh winter routes I did last season!

We headed up into Cwm Cneifion and Clogwyn Du being one of the more reliable venues for early season mixed climbing. The crag certainly looked wintry enough and temperatures were just about cold enough, probably hovering around freezing.

First we did Cleft Gully V, 6 on the right hand side of the crag, the first pitch was surprisingly icy, it would probably have taken a screw or two. Not having any screws with us we made do with slings round icicles. The second pitch was quite short but packed a punch. About 5m or so of super steep hooking and can opener moves, I even managed the throw in a crampon…