Showing posts from October, 2012

The Arddu Bouldering Circuit

On Sunday, making the most of the sunny weather Amy and headed up into the Arddu area near Nantmor for a bit of bouldering exploration. This is an area I know well having grown up close by but until recently I hadn't been aware of much developed bouldering. The area was mentioned but no details given in the current guidebook. It turns out that the area was developed quite extensively by Paul Pritchard and co. The hand drawn (surprisingly good) topos were published in Northen Soul climbing magazine in 1988 and in Bouldering in North Wales volume 2: Mountain Crags in 2000. Thanks a lot to Simon Panton for digging out the magazine and scanning the relevant topos for me. Here are the scans with my annotations and grid references:

The bouldering in the Arddu is certainly a little esoteric but the enthusiastic boulderer will be rewarded with a good circuit of interesting problems in a quiet and beautiful area.

Today I visited most areas mentioned in Pritch's topos. The highlights f…

Seaside Bouldering

This weekend saw a very welcome but long awaited return of sunshine to North Wales. This coincided with a visit from Amy, we managed two great days out bouldering.
On Saturday after a leisurely brunch we nipped down to Criccieth for a little play on the traverse under the castle. I love this traverse, starts off very easy then gets gradually harder culminating in a strenuous sequence of moves to cross an overhanging section which would merit V5 on it's own. I think the whole traverse (about 50m of it!) is probably worth a sport grade of 7b+, it's a real pump fest!

The rock is great and continually interesting, often unhelpfully rounded. The wall is a fast drying sun trap however it does get dripped on from above after prolonged rain.

The seaside location has got a very holiday feel to it, top quality ice cream and coffee are only a 5min walk away, nice. Often the weather in Criccieth is a good deal better than in the mountains and it's quite a bit closer than Porth Ysgo.