Showing posts from September, 2012

Beddgelert and Nant Gwynant Bouldering

Over the past couple of days I've been making the most of the dry conditions and limited time to go and checkout some newly developed boulders in south Snowdonia. I've found some real classic V5-V6  boulder problems, up there with the best problems in North Wales in terms of quality.

Nant Gwynant - Craig Y Lyn  Nant Gwynant bouldering is best know for the classic Elephantitus , but a new area has been developed a little further down the road. Right below the crag Craig y Llyn are a collection of roadside boulders. Most are a little mossy, but the main event Voie Normal block is awesome. Voie Normal goes at V6/7 for sitting, an essential tick for a Gwynant bouldering session. There are also a few other variations and link up's on this block, the left to right traverse of Alice which starts low down on the left then crosses Voie Normal half way then finishes with a wild slap to the arete then a move back left is particularly good.

As always the awesome North Wales Bouldering …

Manic Strain

Since coming back from my summer van tour I've been quite busy with work and the weather has been generally wet, apparently it's been the wettest summer in the UK for 100 years! After a long trip with plenty of European sun it took a while to re-adjust back to the North Wales climate. However I can't complain too much, I've still managed a fair few good days out climbing. The highlights over the past month or so are (in no particular order) Cockblock E5 6b on Clogwyn y Grochan (not on-sight), Soap on a Rope E4 6a DWS in Vivan Quarry, Warpath E5 6a at Rhoscolyn, climbing on Cloggy for the first time doing Main Wall E4 6a and the even better Pinnacle Arête E2 5c.

A few days ago I managed a successful red-point of Manic Strain 8a in Vivian Quarry. The route was the first 8a to be put up on slate by John Redhead back in 1986, cutting edge stuff. At the time it was only the fouth bolt protected 8a in the UK (I think?) after Jerry Moffat's Masterclass in 1983, Revelation…