Showing posts from September, 2010

New Tremadog Guidebook

Front Cover
I popped into Costsworlds in Betws before work yesterday to pick-up some maps. While looking for the desired map (North East Lakes 1:25000) I glanced over to the climbing guidebook shelf. The new Tremadog guide caught my eye. I picked it up, it was about the same thickness but slightly larger than the old guide. I turned it over to look at the photo on the rear cover, noticing immediately that it looked familiar...I then realised it was a photo I had taken! Quickly I flicked to the front, reassuringly I had been credited for my efforts.

My photo on the rear! 

The photo is of the guidebook author Steve Long soloing a route called Princess at Craig y Gesail last summer. I had sent the photo in after chatting to Steve at the crag and helping with some route descriptions.

£22 and 24hrs later I have now had a chance to pretty much read the new guide cover-to-cover. It is definitely an improvement on the previous edition. Stars to indicate route quality, route numbering and the na…

Surfing and Porth Ysgo

On Wednesday Barni Josh and I went to Hells Mouth on the Lleyn to try out Joshe's new board. None of us had ever tried to surf before. We had marginal success, Barni managed to catch a wave and stand up for a few seconds! The waves were pretty big, getting out was a mission! Even though it was summer and we were wearing wetsuits we soon got pretty cold. I was glad of having the van to sit in and make a mug of fresh hot coffee to warm up. Luxury!

Hells Mouth Beach 

Barni battling his way out
Afterwards we headed to Porth Ysgo for some classic bouldering. 

Barni on Ysgo Crack
Me on the top of Ysgo Crack

Barni pulling hard on Fast Cars 

The 'Ysgo Rash' 
After bouldering we checked out the little gritstone style crag on the hill, visible just before the road drops down to Porth Ysgo. From the road the crag looks like it could have potential. On closer inspection it was clear why the crag receives little attention. The rock is good, but a bit green. The crag lacks any obvious line and …

Path To Rome

Last Sunday Barni and I decided to explore the Lleyn by climbing the classic Path to Rome on Cilan Head...It was awesome!

Barni setting off on the 50m traverse on Path to Rome 
The route is one of the more travelled routes on the Lleyn and relativity easy to find. The route is unique. It consists of a short (<30m) abb, a 50m 5c traverse following gritstone style brakes then a short 5c groove to the top. The rock is generally solid (apart from the last few meters). The crux on the main traverse pitch can be protected well with cams, take two sets of medium/large cams, the last few meters are a bit run out bit the climbing eases. 

Barni on Path to Rome 
Barni about half way across the 1st pitch! 

Rhoscolyn DWS

Wow what a day! Just got back from a days climbing at Rhoscolyn with Barni and Andy Psyche. The weather was fantastic; It was so nice to be out by the sea.
We started the day be climbing The Sun E2 5c. This classic route lived up to its expectations. Great exposed climbing, decent holds and good gear. The route is given E3 in two out of the three different guidebooks we had with us. I though the route was E2, perhaps a little tricky for 5c.
Chilling out / Recovering after The Sun
The main event was a deep water solo of Electric Blue E4 5c by Barni and myself. Barni had soloed the route a couple of days previously but wanted to repeat it for photos! The route was awesome, if a little scary! A fall from the upper section (30m+) is defiantly unadvisable; luckily the 5c crux is quite low down, just after traversing right. There is also one 5b move low down which is not quite over the water which you would not want to fall off. After half high the climbing gets easier, about hvs to…