Jerry's Roof! and Ice Axe Modification

Last week I managed to do Jerry's Roof, a classic boulder problem in the Llanberis pass. Well kind of any way, I did it from the flake start instead of the arête. This makes it easier, possibly V8 instead of V9. But anyway it was still an occasion for celebration for me since it took about 5 session with lots of training in between.

Resting before the send!     
Cheers for the photo Dave http://davidmorse1984.blogspot.com/


I dont often siege boulder problems or routes in this way, in fact I think its the first time Iv ever done a boulder problem which took more than two sessions! Boulder problems or routes which I cant do in two sessions often feel impossibly hard and I get frustrated and give up. Jerry's roof was different, I actually enjoyed going down to 'work' it. A first for me!

The last few days have seen the real start to winter in North Wales. After having to clear snow of the van after I finished work last night I decided it was time to dig out the axes. I have a pair of Petzl Atzars, last year I used them leashless with just a single Grivel slider griprest crudely fitted onto one of them. This year with rising winter aspirations and a taste for dry tooling I decided to try and fit a griprest. I managed to get the Petzl Quark griprest to fit. Here are some photos:

Stock Vs. modified Petzl Atzar
Some steady drilling was required to drill the 5mm hole on the right! Not much metal to spare
Close up

I'm pleased with how the mod turned out. I'v just been stress testing the grip-rests by subjecting them to repeated ice axe pull-up sessions! I plan to fit a Grivel Slider just above the orange grip to act as a trigger. 

I'm planning to get out in the hills over the weekend to see what's going on. I don't think there will be much in nick yet but its always fun to get out in the snow. Will report back. Check out Baggy's blog for N.Wales winter updates http://wwwbaggy.blogspot.com/

Also the PYB indoor wall has been reset, well psyched! This is the most exciting thing to happen in Capel Curig for a while! 

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